“Black PU leather, 1.2 mm” gets you five quotes for five different materials. A spec sheet makes suppliers quote the same thing, and gives you something to reject bulk against.
Short answer: A usable faux leather spec defines ten things: base chemistry, backing fabric, total thickness with tolerance, weight, width and roll length, surface (grain, gloss, emboss), colour standard, physical performance tests, chemical compliance, and commercial terms (MOQ, lead time, packing). Anything you leave out, the supplier decides, usually in favour of the cheapest option that still looks right on a swatch.
Key Takeaways
- Write a tolerance next to every number (thickness, weight, width). A spec without tolerances can’t be used to reject a shipment.
- Specify the backing separately from the coating. It controls stretch, tear strength and how the material sews.
- Name the test method and the pass level for each performance claim, such as “ISO 1419 Method C, ≥5 weeks, no cracking or delamination”, not “hydrolysis resistant”.
- Approve samples in stages (hand-feel swatch → lab dip → strike-off → pre-production) and keep a signed reference for bulk.
If you haven’t chosen between PU, PVC and microfiber yet, start with our PU vs PVC vs microfiber comparison. This guide assumes you have, and now need a spec every supplier will read the same way.
Specs 1–3: Material, Backing and Thickness
1. Base chemistry
State the polymer and, for PU, the type where it matters: “PU, polyether or polycarbonate based” or “PVC, non-phthalate plasticizer”. PU chemistry affects hydrolysis resistance, and the PVC plasticizer affects compliance. If you need waterborne or solvent-free PU (no DMF in the process), write it here. It changes the price, so it has to be on the quote.
2. Backing fabric
Specify the backing construction and fibre: for example “polyester knit, approx. 100 g/m²”, “polyester/cotton woven”, “nonwoven” or “microfiber base”. Rule of thumb:
- Knit: stretch and conformability, suited to apparel, curved furniture and car door panels.
- Woven: dimensional stability, suited to bags, belts and structured goods.
- Nonwoven / microfiber: body and tear strength, suited to footwear and items that are skived and edge-finished.
3. Total thickness with tolerance
Give total thickness in millimetres with a tolerance, such as “1.0 mm ±0.1 mm”, and name the gauge method (ISO 2589 is the leather method; coated-fabric labs commonly use ISO 2286-3). Without a method, two labs can measure the same roll differently because presser-foot pressure changes the reading on soft, foamed constructions.
Specs 4–6: Weight, Width and Surface
4. Weight (g/m²)
Weight is a quick cross-check on thickness: two rolls at the same thickness but very different weights usually have different amounts of foam or filler. State it as a range, for example “550–600 g/m²”.
5. Usable width and roll length
Specify usable width (excluding selvedge marks and pin holes) as well as full width, for example “usable 137 cm, full 140 cm”. Also give roll length and the maximum number of joins per roll. Usable width directly affects your cutting yield and cost per finished piece.
6. Surface: grain, gloss, finish
Name the grain (lychee, nappa, saffiano, crazy horse, smooth), give the supplier’s emboss plate reference, and specify gloss as a measured value with a gloss meter angle, such as “gloss ≤3 GU at 60°”, rather than “matte”. Add special finishes as separate lines: pull-up effect, two-tone, perforation pattern, print.
Spec 7: Colour Standard and Approval
Supply a physical colour standard (or Pantone reference plus a physical target) and set how it will be judged: light source (typically D65 as primary, with a secondary source such as TL84 or LED to check metamerism) and an acceptable tolerance, for example “ΔE (CMC 2:1) ≤1.0”. State that each bulk lot must come with a shade band or lot cutting so you can control lot-to-lot variation across production.
Spec 8: Physical Performance Tests
For every performance property, write the test method + pass level. Choose tests based on the material’s known weaknesses and the end use. The table below is a starting template; adjust the pass levels to your category. Our testing standards guide explains each method.
| Property | Example method | How to write the requirement |
|---|---|---|
| Abrasion | ISO 5470-2 (Martindale) or ASTM D4157 (Wyzenbeek) | “≥ [X] cycles / double rubs, no exposed backing” |
| Hydrolysis (PU) | ISO 1419 Method C | “≥ [N] weeks, no cracking, tackiness or delamination” |
| Flex resistance | ISO 7854 (method A, B or C) | “≥ [X] flex cycles, no cracking” |
| Cold flex (PVC, outdoor) | ASTM D2136 | “Pass at [−X] °C” |
| Coating adhesion | ASTM D751 (adhesion) / ISO 2411 | “≥ [X] N per 25/50 mm width” |
| Tear / tensile | ASTM D751 or ISO 13937 / ISO 1421 | “Warp ≥ [X] N, weft ≥ [Y] N” |
| Colourfastness to rubbing | ISO 11640 or ISO 105-X12 | “Dry ≥4, wet ≥3–4 (grey scale)” |
| Light fastness | ISO 105-B02 | “≥ [grade] (blue wool scale)” |
| Flammability (upholstery) | Per market: e.g. CAL TB 117-2013, BS 5852 | “Pass [standard] as applicable to destination” |
Spec 9: Chemical Compliance
List the regulations and restricted-substance list (RSL) the material must meet, and ask for test reports from an ISO/IEC 17025-accredited lab, tied to your article number and dated within an agreed window (commonly 12 months). At minimum, cover:
- EU REACH Annex XVII, including the phthalate limit (entry 51) and the DMF restriction (entry 76) for PU.
- California Proposition 65 if selling into California. DMF has been on the Prop 65 list since 2017.
- Children’s products: the relevant market’s rules (for example CPSIA in the US) if the material may end up in kids’ items.
- Your brand RSL, or a common one such as the AFIRM RSL, plus any OEKO-TEX or similar certification you plan to reference on the product.
The 2026 compliance guide covers the limits, dates and marketing-claim rules in detail.
Spec 10: MOQ, Lead Time and Packing
Put the commercial terms on the same sheet so quotes are comparable:
- MOQ per colour and per article, plus the surcharge for smaller runs.
- Lead times for lab dips, strike-offs, and bulk after approval.
- Packing: rolled face-in on a core of stated diameter, never folded, with protective film or interleaving paper for high-gloss or patent finishes, and each roll labelled with article, colour, lot, length and usable width.
- Inspection standard: for example a 4-point inspection system with an agreed maximum points per 100 linear yards/metres, and how defects are marked on the roll.
A Sampling Sequence That Prevents Bulk Surprises
- Hand-feel swatches: confirm base chemistry, backing, thickness and grain direction.
- Lab dips: approve colour under your stated light sources and tolerance.
- Strike-off (production-line sample): confirms the colour and finish can be reproduced on the actual line. Send it for the physical and chemical tests on your spec.
- Pre-production (PP) sample: made into your product, checked for sewing, folding, edge-painting and moulding behaviour.
- Bulk: each lot ships with a lot cutting and the test reports agreed in the contract. Keep a signed PP reference in your office.
Copy-Ready Spec Sheet Template
| Field | Your specification |
|---|---|
| Article / reference | [supplier article no.] / [your ref] |
| Base chemistry | [PU polyether / PU polycarbonate / PVC non-phthalate / microfiber] |
| Process | [solvent-based / waterborne / solvent-free] |
| Backing | [knit / woven / nonwoven], [fibre], [~g/m²] |
| Total thickness | [X.X] mm ± [0.X] mm, method [ISO 2286-3] |
| Weight | [range] g/m² |
| Width | Usable [X] cm / full [Y] cm |
| Roll length / joins | [X] m per roll, max [N] joins |
| Grain / emboss ref | [name] / [plate no.] |
| Gloss | [X] GU at 60° |
| Colour standard | [physical std / Pantone], D65 + [secondary], ΔE CMC(2:1) ≤ [X] |
| Performance tests | [method + pass level for each: see table above] |
| Compliance | REACH Annex XVII, Prop 65, [brand RSL], [certification]; reports ≤12 months old |
| MOQ / lead time | [X] m per colour / lab dip [X] days, bulk [X] days |
| Packing / inspection | Rolled face-in, [core size], labelled; 4-point, ≤ [X] points/100 m |
Next: decide the pass levels
The template is only as strong as the numbers you put in it. See what each test measures, and which levels are commonly used for upholstery, bags and footwear.
Read the Testing Standards GuideFrequently Asked Questions
What thickness of faux leather should I use?
It depends on the product. Garments and linings usually use thinner, softer constructions. Bags and footwear uppers sit in the middle. Upholstery and heavy-duty goods use the thickest. Rather than choosing a number in isolation, test a sample in the actual product (folded edges, seams, curved panels) and then fix the thickness with a tolerance.
What is a reasonable MOQ for custom faux leather?
MOQs vary by supplier, process and whether the colour or grain is new. Stock colours on existing articles can often be ordered in small quantities, while custom colours and new emboss plates carry higher minimums. Always ask for the MOQ per colour and the small-lot surcharge in writing.
Should I test every bulk lot?
Most buyers test the approved strike-off in full, then test bulk lots on a risk basis: every lot for colour and a small set of physical checks, plus periodic full chemical testing. Agree the frequency in the contract so it isn’t negotiated after a problem.
Bottom Line
- Every number needs a tolerance and a method.
- Specify the backing and the process, not just “PU” or “PVC”.
- Approve in stages and keep a signed reference for bulk.